Cases sticking in smith and wesson model 18
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In 1953, the Air Force placed an order for 40,000 of these guns with Smith & Wesson. These guns were primarily intended for aircrew use and were built with both aluminum frames and cylinders. The United States Air Force purchased just over 600 of these prototype, 2” round butt revolvers from Smith & Wesson in 1951, as the Korean War ramped up. It beats irons and/or suppressor height sights any day.The Model 12 came to be as the Military & Police Airweight in the early 1950’s. TLDR: If you don't want to modify the slide and you want a red dot with backup iron sights, this is currently the best option. I definitely can't keep the dot in the window the whole time when firing like with traditional dots, but finding it again is as easy as finding iron sights again, and you get the added precision aiming capabilities of a pistol dot. This doesn't exactly appear to be the case for me as much with the deltapoint micro as with others, even cheap 3 or 4 MOA amazon red dots found for $25. I might have a slight astigmatism, but I find with most dots if I turn the brightness down the distortion decreases. The dot is noticeably bigger than the center dot on my holosun optics and definitely likes to bloom out into more of a vertical oval than a pure dot (at least to my eyes). Some areas for improvement include the battery compartment cover removal requirement for takedown of the pistol (SW or Glock), and I wish the dot were 2 MOA, not 3. I setup an MP 2.0 5" with a Streamlight VIR II, a Tru Glo tritium front sight, and a DeltaPoint Micro which is pretty nice at the range. Using the aperture as a ghost ring backup sight with the front iron sight in the lower 1/3 is pretty effective too, so you get a red dot and backup irons with no slide modifications, which is a pretty good deal. If you can shoot with iron sights and find them alright already, then the deltapoint micro is easy to adapt to.
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Be thankful that some scrub made this post and hopefully it's searchable via google/duckduckgo for others in the future. Wish Leupold had documented what to do if one has over tightened the battery cover in the manual.Screw the battery cover back in don't tighten it too much this time :p. Note that the rubber control circuit board cover part has a specific orientation in which it must go (line up the slot with the protrusion). Reassemble the battery cover control circuit board and rubber button part of the battery cover.Use that bar as a screwdriver to remove the battery cover. Observe there are 2 cutouts in the battery holder place around the rim that keeps the control circuit board in place.Place the cover and the circuit board aside for later reassembly. You should be able to do this without scratching anything visible to the user or damaging the rubber. Take note of the orientation of the pogo pins on the metal contacts. Using your fingers or a small flat head screwdriver, pry off the rubber cover holding down the control circuit board.Do all the safety things (clear the gun, lock the slide back, make sure there is no magazine inserted, and keep it pointed in a safe direction throughout all additional steps).That said, if you do tighten it down too much, and you've googled for a solution (after this post has been made anyway) do the following (instead of getting out the vice grips). PSA: Don't tighten the battery compartment screw too much we all know that you have to take off the cover to remove the slide. Smith & Wesson related news, photos, reviews, questions, accessories and tech.Ĭommerce or political content are not permitted and should be discussed in the appropriate subreddits for them.Ĭome join The Gun Network, a collection of all gun-related sub-reddits!